Anti-aging, Choosing Cosmetics

Skin aging manifests as a decrease in epidermal thickness, reduced skin elasticity, a decline in collagen volume, and an increase in pigmented lesions such as age spots. The most widely known effective anti-aging ingredient is Vitamin A, such as retinol. Following a television broadcast explaining that a retinoic acid product called "Stiva" helps with skin aging, not only "Stiva" ointment but also retinol cosmetics containing Vitamin A have regained popularity. Retinol is a well-known substance used as a main ingredient in anti-wrinkle cosmetics, recognized for its wrinkle-improving effects by regenerating collagen fibers and elastic fibers damaged by UV rays. Adenosine, known alongside retinol as a wrinkle-improving ingredient, is recognized for facilitating skin metabolism and promoting DNA and protein synthesis in the dermis. In addition to retinol and adenosine, ingredients such as niacinamide and Vitamin C are also frequently used in anti-aging products.

Vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants and is a commonly used formulation in dermatology for treating melasma and photoaging. It is also widely used in cosmetics, where it aids in collagen synthesis by acting on the enzyme activity required for this process. However, a disadvantage of topical Vitamin C is its poor stability, so care must be taken to avoid exposure to air as much as possible. Additionally, since Vitamin C maintains its activity when the pH is below 3.5, a low pH can be irritating for those with sensitive skin.

Recently, various therapeutic ingredients used in dermatological treatments are being utilized in anti-aging cosmetics, among which Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) stands out. PDRN exerts anti-inflammatory and anti-ischemic effects, playing a role in wound healing and blood vessel regeneration, thereby providing not only moisturizing but also anti-aging benefits. PDRN is extracted from fish such as salmon, but due to its large molecular weight of 50 to 1,500 kilodaltons, it is difficult to penetrate the skin when applied directly. Consequently, synthetic PDRN is being developed to be absorbed into the skin and is being used as an anti-aging ingredient.

In addition, EGF regenerates cells and influences wound healing, so it is used in the treatment of burn patients; it is also formulated as a cosmetic ingredient and used in anti-aging products. Peptides improve wrinkles by promoting collagen synthesis and inhibiting the secretion of neurotransmitters to disrupt muscle contraction, while hyaluronic acid, known as a main component of fillers, is widely used in anti-aging products due to its high moisturizing effect.

When selecting anti-aging cosmetics, it is necessary to pay attention to side effects as well as effectiveness. Since retinol or Vitamin C can cause stinging, burning, or redness after application, it is better to use small amounts while observing changes in the skin rather than using excessive quantities. In addition, it is necessary to identify the anti-aging ingredients required for one's individual skin and select products that are beneficial.

source Anti-aging, Choosing Cosmetics - Your Health Guide Health Chosun (chosun.com)